Vortex Razor AMG UH-1 (Codename: Huey) Preview

The blog post Vortex Razor AMG UH-1 (Codename: Huey) Preview is available on Owen

Vortex Optics have revealed a sneak peek of their Razor^® AMG^® UH-1. Code-named Huey, this holographic piece of technology is weapon mountable, and on the right is the first picture publicly released. The Razor AMG UH-1 sight consists of an aluminium chassis and features far fewer moving parts when compared to more traditional holographic sights. This makes for a more durable piece of technology. Power comes from the included CR123A battery, but can also be from running LFP CR123A's. What I really like, is how these can be recharged on-board, through the use of the waterproof micro-USB port that can be found on-board. What makes this sight stand out even more, is that there is virtually no forward signature meaning the shooter is the only one to see the new EBR-CQB reticle. This is unlike any other holographic or red dot sight on the market. Keep your eyes on this page for more updates on launch dates, pricing, where to buy and reviews on the Vortex Razor AMG UH-1.

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Digiscoping 101: What is it, and how does it work?

Digiscoping 101: What is it, and how does it work? is courtesy of http://www.thebinocularsguy.com

Digiscoping is taking photographs with a digital compact camera through the eyepiece of a telescope. This method wasn't - as you might believe - developed by photographers, but was discovered accidentally by nature observers. The development of high-quality compact digital cameras since the late 90s makes it possible to take high-class pictures through high-end telescopes using quite a simple technique. The main aim is in "freezing" and storing wonderful moments, which have previously "only" been observed through a scope. Easy documentation of different species is just as important an application. Thanks to long focal lengths (high magnification factors) it is also possible to photograph sensitive species from a great distance without disturbing them, or to take close-up photographs of distant objects that are difficult to reach. With a great deal of practice, some test runs and time spent studying the theory in depth, it will also be possible to take exceptionally sharp images in a quality which comes close to images taken with expensive professional photography equipment (SLR cameras with tele-converters).

Why is digiscoping so interesting?

• Added value for your telescope: not just viewing but taking photographs too.
• Quality images of very distant subjects.
• No need to buy film ever again - storage media is reusable.
• Images can be checked and enjoyed immediately after capture.
• Very cost-effective compared to expensive SLR cameras and tele-converters
• Presentation of the images on TV or using a data projector (slide shows)
• No loss of quality when copying and transferring data.
• Editing images later is easy.
• Prints can be produced and photos sent via email immediately.

Why does Digiscoping Work?

A telescope scope has the basic function of bringing a magnified image to the observer's eye. Light enters the large objective lens at the end of the scope and comes out through the eyepiece as a round column of light called the exit pupil. It is this column of light that the camera will be photographing so it must be centred exactly over the light column or a condition called vignetting or shadowing, which spoils the picture, will occur. The digital camera mimics the human eye to a certain extent in this manner. Related reading: Digiscoping Equipment | Tips and Tricks | Digiscoping Cameras

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Digiscoping Equipment: What you need, and what you don’t need starting out

Digiscoping Equipment: What you need, and what you don’t need starting out Read more on: The Binoculars Guy website

In addition to a digital camera, a digiscoping kit comprises a spotting scope with eyepiece and advisably an adapter and a tripod with a balance rail.

Telescope

The Vortex Razor HD with good light-gathering qualities is a favourite with digiscopers. Your telescope should have a good optical system with bright and true-colour image reproduction - don't forget that the image which comes out of the eyepiece is stored on the digital camera's CCD sensor! A smooth focusing ring allowing fine adjustments will be particularly important when capturing images with high magnification. Please also ensure that your scope is waterproof, robust and lightweight and that there are some adapters suitable for digiscoping available for it. Your decision regarding the type of eyepiece and the magnification power may also affect the quality of the images you will capture. Most digiscopers use a zoom eyepiece with 20x to 60x magnification, as they also use the scope for observation and want to be as flexible as possible with respect to magnification. As digiscoping becomes more difficult as the magnification increases, some digiscopers use fixed wide-angled eyepieces with 20x or 30x magnification as these have a larger field of view and may possibly have a slightly better optical system, given that it is designed for a single magnification rather than for a specific range of different magnifications.

Adapter

Adapters should be matched perfectly to your scope and its eyepiece. Aligning the camera with the spotting scope is the main purpose of a digital camera adapter, but the adapter also has two other functions - to attach the camera securely to the spotting scope and to limit stray light from entering the camera lens and interfering with proper exposure of the image. Test the adapter to make sure you can use it quickly and easily. When out in the field you might have not much time to get your camera in position and take the shot! Swarovski Optik's digiscoping products combine the superior optical performance of Swarovski Optik telescopes with the advanced features of your digital camera. The innovative DCB Digital Camera Base, the tried and tested DCA Digital Camera Adapter or the TLS 800 telephoto lens system for digital or classic SLR cameras which connect the ATS or STS telescopes to your camera form the ideal system for taking true-colour photographs.

Digiscoping Tripod

The tripod is an important requirement for sharp, contrast-rich images when taking photographs, much more so than when observing. Optimum stability makes a significant contribution to image quality. There are different types of tripods available for different applications. At high magnifications the image is very sensitive to motion and the slightest shake will result in a blurred picture. Keep the tripod legs and centre column as low as possible when shooting, so that they absorb what is known as microshake (vibrations) more efficiently. A wooden or carbon-fibre tripod will absorb vibrations more efficiently than an aluminium tripod although the two drawbacks here are weight and cost respectively. Another alternative is a weight bag - an accessory that hangs below the centre column and may be filled with rocks, sand, etc. to provide additional cushioning of vibrations. The tripod head plays an important role. The smoother the movements the tripod head makes, the easier it is to frame and lock on the shot. The Swarovski Optik balance rail ensures an optimum centre of gravity for the telescope, eliminating camera shake. Related reading: Digiscoping 101 | Tips and Tricks | Digiscoping Cameras

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Digiscoping Cameras: What to look for when buying

The article Digiscoping Cameras: What to look for when buying was originally seen on Owen's The Binoculars Guy

The market for digital cameras is large and ever-increasing. There are almost 300 different brands and models of digital cameras available and though many of them will work for digiscoping, some work far better than others. There is an easy way to check and see whether your digital camera works well for digiscoping: Set up a telescope with your preferred adapter for digital cameras (if you do not own one yet use a friend's or ask your friendly dealer), turn the camera on, centre the camera lens behind the eyepiece of the scope, look at the scope's image on your digital camera's LCD screen viewer, press the shutter button half way down to focus the image and then take the picture.

Choosing a camera for Digiscoping

Does the camera fit on adapters which are optimized for your spotting scope? A threaded connector on the objective lens is required for using the Swarovski Optik DCA adapter, a threaded connector on the tripod is required for using the Swarovski Optik DCB adapter. Is the camera's optical zoom able to get rid of vignetting? (From experience it is advisable to use compact cameras with a 3x zoom.) Cameras which meet these criteria are generally fine for digiscoping. Other important criteria to be considered:

• Does the camera have a remote control for the shutter release?
• Does the camera have a short self-timer (2 or 3 seconds)?
• Does the camera have a large LCD screen (at least 50 mm or 2 inches)?
• Is the LCD screen pivotable (to prevent frontal sun-light on the screen)?
• Does the camera have a good power supply for long use?
• Is the camera programmable or are all features automatic?

Digiscoping with a DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex Cameras)

Some of the large digital reflex cameras can be used with a 50 mm standard objective lens, the heavy weight does, however, cause additional problems in terms of stable attachment. It is also impossible to guarantee that the filter thread of the camera's objective lens will take a system that is as sturdy as one for a smaller compact digital camera. The main difference between a digital SLR camera and a compact digital camera is that the SLR camera has interchangeable lenses like a traditional film camera, is larger and a bit heavier but - depending on the model - offers more professional features like higher ISO, a wider range of different shutter speeds, the ability to shoot in RAW and also the ability to shoot a larger number of frames before the image buffer becomes full, etc. Related reading: Digiscoping 101 | Tips and Tricks | Digiscoping Equipment

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Digiscoping tips and tricks for novices and experts

Digiscoping tips and tricks for novices and experts Read more on: Owen

Digiscoping is an activity that young and old, inexperienced and experienced can take part in. There are however some digiscoping tips that will make your experience much more enjoyable. Here are some of the tips I have come across.

Preventing vignetting

A spotting scope has the basic function of bringing a magnified image to the observer's eye. Light enters the large objective lens at the end of the scope and comes out through the eyepiece as a round column of light known as the exit pupil. It is this column of light that the camera will be photographing so it must be centred accurately over the light column to prevent a condition known as vignetting or shadowing. Try zooming the camera's zoom lens (if it has a zoom lens - most do) to see if you can eliminate the black areas. Very important: Please do not use the digital zoom feature to accomplish this! Stay in the optical zoom range because if you use the digital zoom, your image will suffer a loss of quality!

Preventing blurring

There may be several causes for blurred digiscoping images. The following points are important when digiscoping: - Adjust the spotting scope's focus correctly (focussing) - Select the right camera settings (exposure time, ISO) - Use the camera's self-timer or a remote timer - Create a steady position for the equipment (tripod) - Take up a position out of the wind and - Practice, practice, practice...

Adjust the scope's focus correctly

Basically the camera captures every image reproduced through the scope. The more accurately the scope's focus is adjusted (focussing) to the subject, the better the result.

Select the right camera settings

Aperture size, exposure time or shutter speed and ISO sensitivity have a major effect on the sharpness of the image in digiscoping. The risk of blurred images is much greater due to the high magnification of the scope combined with the camera. The aperture is the opening which lets the light in to get to the CCD. By using a lower aperture number (i.e. f2.4), the aperture size is increased and allows more light into the camera. To achieve the correct exposure of the image, it is necessary to increase the exposure time when the aperture is small, or to increase the aperture if the exposure time is short. Basically: The shorter the exposure time, the lower the risk of camera shake and of ending up with a blurred image. Hence it is advisable to use the camera's automatic exposure setting for "Speed" or "Sport" or "S". This means: the setting with the fastest permissible time at the moment when the shutter release is pressed. A short exposure time must be selected manually if none of the settings mentioned are offered as standard in the camera's programs. The camera automatically selects the most favourable ISO sensitivity for the prevailing light conditions although this may also be adjusted manually. A low ISO number, e.g. ISO 100 or 200 is suitable for good light conditions. The poorer and darker the environment, the higher the ISO number should be set to, e.g. to ISO 400 or 800. So if the most suitable ISO sensitivity is selected (usually the sensitivity pre-selected automatically is exactly right), along with the "Speed" program setting, then nothing should go wrong. At most, one can alter the ISO number if the light fades or if one wishes to photograph subjects in motion.

Use the self-timer or a remote timer

The motto is: avoid all unnecessary movement. Literally holding one's breath when photographing or taking a moment to relax beforehand can have a decisive effect. Often, just the pressure of the finger on the shutter release button is enough to cause camera shake. Therefore the self-timer offers an excellent opportunity for overcoming this problem. There are two ways of doing this. One can use the camera's built-in self-timer or a remote control (not available for all cameras). The camera itself provides the first option; the second allows the shutter release to be operated without having to touch the camera at all (and the camera, therefore, remains perfectly still).

Create a steady position

Ensure that at the time of taking the photograph the spotting scope combined with the camera is in a very steady position and not exposed to any shaking. The tripod is an important requirement for sharp, contrast-rich images when taking photographs, much more so than when simply observing. Optimum stability is a significant factor in image quality. Keep the tripod legs and centre column as low as possible when shooting to absorb vibrations more efficiently. A wooden or carbon-fibre tripod will absorb vibrations more efficiently than an aluminium tripod but the two drawbacks here are weight and cost respectively. Another alternative is a weight bag - an accessory that hangs below the centre column and may be filled with rocks, sand, etc. to provide additional cushioning of vibrations. Related reading: Digiscoping 101 | Equipment for Digiscoping | Digiscoping Cameras

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Backyard Birdwatching: Getting started without leaving the yard

Backyard Birdwatching: Getting started without leaving the yard See more on: http://www.thebinocularsguy.com

What exactly is bird watching? If you go walking through the forest and spy a bird, are you bird watching? Do you have to be knowledgeable in the study of birds before you are considered a bird watcher? Bird watching or birding is basically defined as the observation and study of birds with the naked eye or through a visual enhancement device like binoculars for birdwatching. Though some may disagree, bird watching and birding is essentially the same thing, both are the observation of birds in the wild.

Backyard Birdwatching vs. Birding

In the birding community though, there is some disagreement about grouping the two terms into the same category. Many deem bird watching to be different than birding on quite a few levels. They feel that mere bird watchers deem it more as a past time and don’t pursue it with the same enthusiasm as a birder. It is felt that bird watchers are more content to observe more locally and don't invest in the same grade of equipment as that of a birder. In short, birders don’t tend to rank themselves in the same category as bird watchers.

Birders Methods

Birders feel this way because they tend to invest in higher technology equipment and are dedicated to study birds for more than general observation. Many birders will purchase optical equipment such as spotting scopes. They may even invest in auditory equipment in order to identify the species by year. They take note in moult, distribution, migration patterns, and habitat. Birders are also more prone to travel in order to pursue their passion of birds. It’s basically the same sport; one group just takes it a notch higher than others.

What Does Birding Entail?

So what do you do when you go birding? Birding is a little more involved than merely looking at birds, though you do observe them. Birding also included learning to recognize the birds and identify them. As with any subject you study, you begin to understand the birds and gain knowledge of what they’re doing while in nature. Many people outside the birding world don’t seem to realize that there are over 800 different types of birds. Obviously everyone has to start somewhere when they begin a new hobby or sport. You aren’t going to automatically know everything there is about birds without researching them. For many it takes years before they gain a firm understanding of all the aspects of birding, and all are still learning as new information emerges. Just for clarification purposes, going to the zoo and looking at birds is not birding. Birding is the observation of birds in the wild or natural habitat, not in cages or captivity. So do you have to be some retired person with loads of money in order to go birding? Not at all, anyone who has an interest can watch birds. It’s something that you can start out young and continue through adulthood. It’s an activity that can involve the whole family. There is no encompassing age or demographic when it comes to birding. It’s actually proving to be one of the fastest growing activities in America and is also extremely popular in Britain as well.

Why get involved in Backyard Birdwatching?

So why should I observe birds? Why do other people sit and watch birds? Birds are a beautiful species that are absolutely amazing, especially while in flight. It’s breathtaking to just sit and watch them soar so high above the earth, so effortlessly in the clouds. In ancient times, the bird was considered a foreseer of the future. Now in or world of technology, they can still let us know what we can expect in the environment. They can often help us build a stronger bond with nature. Are there any the benefits that come with birding? To the beginner and novice in birding, there are a variety of benefits that you can benefit from. First and foremost is the fun and pleasure that can be found in birding. There is also a certain satisfaction that comes from searching for the different species of bird. It’s almost like hunting without harming your prey. Birding can also be a fun family activity that helps to strengthen the bond between children, parents, and grandparents. Also it helps introduce children to nature and aid them in gaining a respect for it as well. Birding is a versatile sport that can be either done with or without others. If you are seeking companionship, then birding can be a great social activity. You can share your interest with friends, family, or even join a birding club. If you seek the chance to get away from everyone for some well deserved solitude, then that is also an option. It’s perfectly acceptable to go birding alone. You can go explore nature with the only sounds coming from the birds you are observing. So now that you have an interest in birding, where do you go? For beginners it can be as simple as stepping out your front door. Start with your own neighborhood; observe the birds in your own backyard, so to speak. Watch their behaviors, look at what they’re doing. Once you’ve done that, try to start identifying the birds you see. Start paying attention when you travel, especially if there is a change in environment. It’s likely that you’ll see new species of birds when you travel quite a ways from home. This is just the start of your birding experience.

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Bird Watching Basics: How to get started

The blog post Bird Watching Basics: How to get started Find more on: http://www.thebinocularsguy.com/

Bird watching or birding is a very popular hobby that includes the observation and study of birds. Because visual observation of birds is complemented with auditory observation, the term “birding” is more accurate. Birding is the second most popular outdoor activity in America, second only to gardening as the number-one recreation. For many people watching birds is an opportunity to feel close to nature. They also enjoy the relaxation and peacefulness by watching birds.Some bi… Bird watching or birding is a very popular hobby that includes the observation and study of birds. Because visual observation of birds is complemented with auditory observation, the term “birding” is more accurate. Birding is the second most popular outdoor activity in America, second only to gardening as the number-one recreation. For many people bird watching is an opportunity to feel close to nature. They also enjoy the relaxation and peacefulness by watching birds.Some birders,however,will travel long distances just to see a rare bird. These birders are known as twitchers. Twitching is popular in Britain and several other European countries. Most birders start out by watching and attracting birds to their own backyards. Bird feeding can benefit birds and also provide great bird watching. You can attract a variety of interesting birds to your yard by selecting and offering the right kinds of food. The common types of food offered in bird feeding are seeds, nectar, suet and fruit. Early morning is the best time for bird watching since many birds are then searching most actively for food. Once you start feeding birds, you’ll probably want to identify who is coming to visit. Equipment used for birding includes binoculars, a blank notebook, and one or more good field guides. Field guides are books with pictures and descriptions of the birds. A field guide shows birds of just one country, or one region of a country, or one habitat. Binoculars are described by two numbers: 8×32 for example. The first number tells you the magnification power of the binoculars. The second tells you the size of the objective lens at the end of the binoculars in millimeters. Most bird watchers think that 7 or 8 power is about right for most birding. The next step is to broaden your birding experience beyond your own backyard. Plan a trip to a bird sanctuary, national park and other locations where you can see birds in large numbers. Wherever you go, never harm the birds and always respect other birders. And don’t forget to join a local birding club. Clubs organize field trips, show films of good bird watching destinations and some of them are involved in local environmental projects. Also visit your local library and check out books on birds and ornithology. I would also recommend checking out some birding magazines and visiting some websites for more information.

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